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in this video we're gonna go over the
light meter in detail and this is why we
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know basically how to adjust our
exposure we can adjust our exposure with
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their shutter speed aperture ISO but how
do we essentially know where to start
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out with i mean how do we get that first
exposure to be roughly where we wanted
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to be so we need to do is we need to
understand how that light meter works
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and then we need to adjust according to
it and then get are correct exposure now
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let me go ahead and show you what I mean
is that of talking through it okay we're
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gonna hit the Live View button right now
so we can get our screen just a show up
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here so go ahead and hit the LabVIEW and
right now you can see the screen is
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actually extremely dark we can't really
see anything so the first thing to do is
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actually go down to an absurd that I
want for the overall scene I think for
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this scene it look really beautiful at
around f2f 2.8 that's the first thing to
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do I'm gonna just my aperture based on
the overall composition and I'm going
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for ok so let's go ahead and just gonna
have to point to point out so right now
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you can see that the exposure based on
his live view exposure preview is
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actually pretty close to where we want
to be now say that the shutter speed is
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kind of high let's say that we're at one
one thousandth of a second well that the
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camera itself is going to basically give
me a reading on that light meter you can
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see this light meter at the bottom of
the screen the light meter generally is
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going to range from negative to or
negative three stops right now we have
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negative three stops on this camera all
the way up to
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plus three stops right in the middle
where that little arrow is or where it's
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20 that is what the camera is telling
you is that technically correct exposure
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we've already gone over basically talked
about how well exposures are really
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about the artistry so different types of
exposures really just matters on the
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scene where they're going for something
bright and airy whether you going to
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something a little more dark and
dramatic it doesn't matter so long as
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you shoot the correct exposure for what
you're going to artistically so kind of
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take what it's saying what that camera
saying is that technically correct
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exposure just as a grain of salt is
telling you this is what it thinks is
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technically correct based on the
metering mode you're using we're gonna
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talk about metering modes in a follow-up
video but to the left of that little
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meter we know that it's under exposed
and to the right of that meter we know
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it
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overexposed and in the middle that's
worth telling you its second correct
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case let's go ahead and as I bring my
shutter speed up your gonna see that
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little meters gonna keep pulling to the
left now won four thousand the second
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that's actually the shutter limitation
on this camera we're always negative
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three stops now if I go in I raised the
aperture it can't really go down any
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further so what you see is a little tiny
arrow that points to the left of three
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stops some cameras only go to negative
two stops on the bus to you and the
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negative to side if you see that arrow
that kind of saying its way off to the
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side will you need to make some
adjustments before your meter is going
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to appear within that little light
metering range so we're gonna do it just
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make that adjustment real quick to get
our meter back and then go back to F two
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we're gonna go ahead and slow down the
shutter and if I just halfway to press
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the shutter release button our little
light meter pasa backup on the display
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and I can see it again so right now I'm
at negative to stop so I know that if I
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want to add just be my shutter speed
while min ago one-stop up where no one
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1001 stop underexposed and I go to 1 501
502 second and a half to and iso 100
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this is where the cameras tell me this
is a technically correct exposure for
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the scene but I still need to judge for
myself and that's where I really am
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going to use things like my histogram we
can see from this view right here that
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the histogram is a little bit pulled to
the shadow side so I might do is click
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down I will go to one four hundred
second this is where I'm gonna say is my
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correct exposure brighter tone is going
to yield a better picture is going to be
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a more flattering skin tones so so as
not blowing everything out I'm getting
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what I want I want to err on the side of
brighter for this type of a scene
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all right quick general tips cuz you
nope I just mentioned a very important
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note that I want to briefly emphasized
he said so long as you aren't blowing
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anything out you want to err on the
brighter site so this technique is known
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as et TR or exposing to the right
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histogram now this doesn't mean that you
blow out your highlights but rather that
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you will get a cleaner image if you
exposed to highlights then ETTL or
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exposed to the left which would make the
image darker so rule of thumb when you
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want to maximize tonal range in a shot
and maximize image quality ETR
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exposed to that you're peter is pushed
as far to the right without actually
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blowing out any highlights and without
clicking any shadows ok so back to the
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video before right now this looks great
when I'm gonna do is drop the camera off
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and we're going to take our shot the one
thing I'm gonna do here though is I am
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gonna add a little bit of a feel like
I'm not sure exactly what that's going
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to do so if you want to grab the silver
Hill so what we're doing here is we're