Seams
a. Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated, twisted, wavy or uneven seams affecting appearance
b. Open seams
c. Runoff seams
d. Excessively “grinning” seams
e. Uneven seam margin, +/- 1/8”, but not both
f. Raw or untrimmed edges, except by design
Sleeves, armholes & cuffs
a. Sleeves set in backwards or twisted
b. Right and left sleeves switched
c. Sleeve underarm seam misaligned with side seam > ¼”
d. Cuffs set on unevenly
e. Cuff facing uneven, twisted or poorly sewn
f. Improper cuff turning where under cuff shows below edge of top cuff (beading)
Stitching a. Stitch type other than specified, or if not specified, is inappropriate
b. Excessively tight or loose tension
c. Stitches per inch deviation of more than +/- 2 per inch as specified
d. Stitching showing inappropriately, e.g. stay stitching on sleeve cap
e. Single or double-needle topstitching uneven or not uniformly spaced
f. Edge margin of topstitching not uniform or balanced
g. Any topstitching not stitch-on-stitch overlapped at start and finish
h. Stitching ends not properly secured, tied in, or caught in other seams
i. Outside run off stitches are over ¼”
j. Broken stitches if they affect function or appearance
k. Skipped stitches on chainstitch
l. Skipped stitches on lock stitch maximum 1 per seam, or 2 if long seam, when affecting function
m. Bartacks have skipped stitches, or incorrect stitch count
n. Stitches incomplete
o. Stitches irregular
p. Safety stitch wrong width
q. Sewn in pleat over ¼” visible as displayed on inside or outside
r. Spot shirring not uniformly distributed
s. Sewn-in pleats or excessive puckers
t. Needle cuts that appear objectionable or could develop into a hole
u. Garment with more than two needle pricks per six inches