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as we progress through the photography
101 series we're gonna be teaching you
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all sorts of ways that you can use the
cameras in camera metering system to
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basically measure the amount of light
around you but for right now we don't
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want to get into all the technical stuff
I want you all to get out shooting with
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us and we understand what we're doing in
camera so what I want to do is teach you
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how to gauge exposure using Live View
and using the Live View histogram the
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histogram is an incredibly powerful tool
to help us to visually gauge the overall
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exposure in our images and when to use
this scene to demonstrate now what we
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have here is we have the Sun directly in
front of me right now it is behind some
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clouds so it is softened up a little bit
but it's basically right behind the
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scene that I'm shooting into this means
that the seat is going to be backlit so
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in the rocks we have very deep and dark
shadows in the water we have a very
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bright highlights where the light from
the Sun is touching this is going to be
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kind of difficult when we get to
exposing the scene correctly in the
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histogram is gonna be a powerful tool
now we don't have that necessarily when
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we're shooting with the Sun you can see
kind of behind me as we're shooting with
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the Sun everything kind of falls to a
very flat mid tone range because it's
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all being directly led to show you
exactly how this would look like in the
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history of but first let's pull apart
live you and show you exactly how you do
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it I have my Canon Rebel t2i by right
here on my tripod we have the 55 to 250
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lens on this is a standard kit lens and
we're going to is going to shoot a nice
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load composition giving us some
foreground rocks and shooting these tide
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pool rocks and getting a little bit of
water splashing on the water's coming in
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from the right side so you got a nice
shot is a water kind of comes up and
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give us a nice action shots we have this
amounted to Army photo globetrotter
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tripod it's a great tripod and expensive
for what you get is pretty awesome I'm
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gonna mounted just that everything stays
stable as we're demonstrating all these
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different things and we can see exactly
from frame to frame how it looks let's
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go ahead and hit the Live View button
right are eighty-five I here and gonna
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pull up our live you on the back of the
screen now right now I pretty much don't
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see anything okay because it's too dark
and underexposed completely so we need
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to do is that just exposure so at least
we see something on the back of the
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screen now typically here live use
prominent display something more like
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along the lines of this now to get it to
display the history and we simply hit
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info until the histogram actually
displayed now let's go ahead and adjust
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our shutter speed or aperture
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gonna go with first of all and after a
maybe a little bit lower than hold down
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the option button we're gonna go down
like maybe around eight because I do
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want a broad depth of field I want to
get around that optimal sharpness on the
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aperture as well and I now I'm gonna
slow down the shutter just so we have
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something to see on the screen now this
info so we can bring up that live you
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histogram and there it is now the
histogram looks a little bit confusing
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and it looks something like awful that
we used to hate in mathematics with
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those curves and all that but it's
really not that hard to understand and
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it's very simple when you know exactly
what I showing you all the histogram is
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doing is showing you the overall
brightness or the luminosity and you're
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seeing now what this means is that the
left of the histogram this little side
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over here on the left is going to be our
shadows in the middle we have our mid
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tone and in the right side we have our
highlights anything that's pushed into
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those areas based is gonna be
demonstrated with these peaks now
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wherever it peaks at telling you that a
lot of the tonal range in the image is
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in that area in your shopping going to
show exactly that means I'm sure that
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was very confusing to hear so right now
we're a little bit underexposed let me
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go ahead and keep under exposing and
what you're gonna see is that when I get
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up to 14 thousandth of a second at a
title 100 everything is pushed to the
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left of the histogram showing that it's
under expose everything push the left me
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that work clipping our shadow detail if
we are losing shadow detail that means
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it's gone it doesn't matter for shooting
RAW and JPEG it is gone when we get into
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post-production its gonna print as pure
black likewise it hard to bring this all
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the way to the other side so now I'm
slowing down the shutter speed going
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down to one one-hundredth of a second
now we push everything to the right side
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of the histogram so everything is pushed
against the right side are shadows come
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off the left edge so we have very little
showers in the scene and we have a lot
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of highlight that are being blown out
blown out at the same thing as flipping
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are shadows we're losing our detail in
our highlights and that means those
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highlights are going to print as pure
white the goal of the histogram is to
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get everything within the middle range
basically what we're gonna do is adjust
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my shutter speed and watch visually as
the histogram pulls into the center now
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the goal is to get our shadows up
against the left edge and the highlights
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up against the right now without blowing
out any highlights and without clipping
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any of our shadows
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and we get that right around say one to
be the second right now now we can get
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that right now because well we're not
getting two hearts of sunlight we're
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covered and cloud cover but if it were
much brighter if there were no cloud
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then we'd have to go with a much higher
shutter speed so that is a balanced
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histogram now once I have that I'm just
gonna wait for my waves and then take my
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shot now I'm noticing that I'm not one
to be the second that means that we are
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going to be showing a little bit the
action in the way that motion were not
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be fully freezing it so what I'm I want
to do is just a just might have turned
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down a little bit so I'm gonna bring my
absurd down to let's say seven point
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actually gonna 6.3 will bring the
shutter speed up to 1 500 per second so
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we can freeze that water is just a
little bit better now all going to come
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down to is waiting for that perfect wave
and capturing our shot by the way I have
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locked in my focus I just picked up a
point of focus that kind of in the
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middle of our depth and that seemed
locked out focus right there is that way
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doesn't change throughout this entire
scene I did that is by switching system