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high-speed think versus neutral density
filters which is the best method for
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synchronizing flash and you know it
before you can talk about which is the
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best method in the pros and cons of each
what the heck is flash synchronization
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let's talk about that
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well basically when you fire your your
camera we talked about before when you
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press the shutter release your front
door opened and the rear curtain trails
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and the amount of time it between those
two things happening is your shutter
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speed if your shutter speed is set to a
you know fairly slow speed then it's
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very easy for that flashed a power up
and fire within the amount of time it
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has because it's kind of slow so there's
enough time and therefore that flash to
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power up and fire but if the shutter
speed is too quick what ends up
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happening is the front curtain opens in
the record closes before the flashes a
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chance to power up and fire off this is
what we refer to as flash
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synchronization and the general kind of
limit for speed on flash synchronization
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is 1 200 of a second sometimes to be
safe haven keep it around 11 60 the
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second but in general you can go to one
202nd and the flash can still fire off
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at whatever power said he wanted to
within a period of the shutter speed
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anything above that and you run into
flash synchronization problems and what
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basically happened is let's say for
example using a pocket wizard on the
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camera unit itself and then using an
off-camera flash and I go at 1 400 of
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the second shutter speed when I fire I'm
gonna end up with a black bar in the
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frame where basically part of the flash
was able to fire before the rear curtain
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closed and then what we're seeing with
that black bar is actually the rear
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curtain so the record is closing before
the flash had a chance to completely
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fire so you'll see a bar going across
the image where / hit a certain portion
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and where missed another portion that
synchronization now generally when
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you're using a full-feature flash on
your hot shoe it's not going to allow
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you to go above 1 200 of a second
without turning on
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high-speed sync so automatically it
limits you their wares with a pocket is
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that it doesn't limit you can actually
take the the shutter speed up too high
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and run into the problem with a flash
with Apple TV flash it just limits your
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camera to actually not being able to go
about 12 seconds of you ever wonder why
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why is my camera not going about 100
seconds get your flashes on and you
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haven't turned on high-speed sync so we
have two options
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well if you're working outdoors in
midday Sun and you want to get your
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shutter speed slow enough for your flash
to fire you yourselves be below 12 in
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the second that means you're using an
aperture of say F 11 F fourteen to get
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that shutter speed slow enough to
synchronize your flash with that's a
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great if if you're working with a
background it's beautiful and you want
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the field anyone or show this entire
landscape and you want to highlight a
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subject in his background in everything
you want to be in focus that's fine
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that's great
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the problem is if you're working at
midday situation and you want to blur
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the background if you want to create
depth of field and separation there and
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you lower the after you open up the
absurd I guess they have to wait an F
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for well your shutter speed now climbs
up so you're such as PDF to have to wait
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is going to be around 12 thousandth of a
second one for dozens of a second and
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that's far too quick for standard
synchronization speed so what are two
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options
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well the two options basically either
use high-speed sync which is a feature
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built into full feature flashes that
allows the flash of fire even at higher
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shutter speeds than 12 in the second or
we use a neutral density filter which
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would have to buy separately this for
example is that neutral density filter
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this is a five stop singing a filter
that this is the filter that we prefer
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using cuz it's very nice and quality it
is rather expensive so we have some
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other suggestions that will be talking
about when it comes to any filters that
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are in different price ranges but what
the heck why would I recommend buying a
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neutral density filter why would I even
use a neutral density filter if I have a
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job that's built into my flash
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let's talk in detail of Ages first I
have my photo features plus which is
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a full-featured / right here and to get
to ages as I simply hit HSS on the back
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of the unit and I get to HSS now I could
carry my shutter speed up higher than 12
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under the second and the flash can fire
and synchronize between that shutter
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speed so that sounds pretty fantastic
right but here's what's actually
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happening once you go into HSS your
flash is no longer firing once when the
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shutter opens what's actually happening
and it looks like it's firing ones but
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what actually is happening is the
flashes pulsing so the flash within that
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shattered that it opened up with enough
speed let's say 1 500 second one one
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thousandth of a second the flashes gonna
fire multiple times as fast as it
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possibly can to make sure that it
basically fits in there a flash ok so it
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might / 20 times at within that 1 501
1,000 per 1,000 part of a second fired
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multiple times and it looks like one
class what's happened so fast but
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actually post to make sure that one of
those with able to get into that
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synchronization speed now as you can
imagine if it's firing 5 10 20 50 times
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within that fraction of a second
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well you're probably losing flash power
right because they can't fire at full
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power that many times in that little
shorter period has to be cycle so we
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have tremendous amount of light loss how
much like loss in general when you're
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using high-speed sync you're gonna be
shooting at around four to five stops
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below full power
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ok so we're only getting like say three
to five percent of our total flash
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output when we're in high-speed sync
modes now it still is usable but the
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thing there is that you have a lot of
compromise that you have to make when
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you're using high-speed saying let's say
for example with this image right here
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this was shot at 14 under the second
half to an ISO 50 so to get down to one
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four hundred a second even the drama is
so than 250 which on the 5d Mark III is
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not a native ISO some actually
compromising a little bit of dynamic
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range