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gradient across the surpluses
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this product so in addition to our
surface
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and are diffusion panels in the flashes
got a little
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grip card over here with various balance
cards and the
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claussen Aaron things that you seem use
an earlier tutorial
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and will might be using some other stuff
from the shoot I'm not sure it's always
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nice to have that stuff on set with the
issue not running around your location
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trying to gather all the stuff up
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this is a little baker's rack you can
use a tool cart anything but
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if you are gonna be doing product
photography I would suggest
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that you get something like this so that
you can keep your tools close by it can
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help you be more efficient remember
consistency and efficiency is key way
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comes to catalog petard p next they want
to talk about is how are triggering
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these lights I have PocketWizard on top
of the camera
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which send the signal to the flash
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via a receiving PocketWizard which is
connected to the flash
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everytime i press the shutter its gonna
tell this PocketWizard to send a
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RF radio signal to the other
PocketWizard
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which will then turn the flash if we
start adding additional lights into the
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scene
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i cant set those two optical slave where
they'll see the flash from one light
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and it will cause them to triggers well
it's really only need one senator these
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pocket wizards one transmitter and one
receiver to accomplish our goal
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now let's talk more about the camera and
the settings and the lens selection
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one other things that we need to look at
here because we're using flash
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photography is our white balance
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and the first segment I use an auto
white balance and it was able to give us
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a successful daylight white balance from
the day like that was coming through the
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window
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I could select in a daylight white
balance in the camera but
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having on our and seeing the results I
was perfectly satisfied with what we got
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nap this time I set my white balance and
the camera
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to flash white balance will do is trying
to neutralize the color flight planning
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on our subject
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will try to get in it didn't have any
color casts be a cool color cast a warm
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color cast
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the are cast by the type some lighting
that we're using whether it's daylight
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whether it's tungsten lighting inside a
space inside a building
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whether it's fluorescent lighting or
whether it's from a flash
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not typically flashes her daylight
balanced Hurley's pretty close to it so
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you can normally use a daylight setting
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or flash setting and get pretty similar
results if you're using flashes
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in conjunction with some sort of ambient
light you may have to use what's called
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a gel
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we introduce those very briefly
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in an earlier segment to try to match
the color
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coming from your flashes to the ambient
light in the room when I can do that
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here because we're gonna
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use a fast enough shutter speed that
we're not gonna have any
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ambient light influence asking into our
camera settings
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I'm said ISO 100 which is the lowest ISO
available for this camera
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remember I wanna tronic minimize any
noise that we have
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coming as a result of higher ISO's also
won't have enough stop
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its gonna give me an update the field
that I can get focused all the way
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through my product
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now because we're not in such a low
angle like we were from the last segment
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we don't have to worry about the depth
of field as much
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on this particular product because we're
shooting and morbid down angle
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really the depth of our product has only
about
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an inch engine apt D and its gonna
change depending on how we end up coming
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up with her all to make
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composition for this but I'm gonna start
at Cafe
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if that's right I don't know we'll see
when we take our for shop
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the shutter speed when you're using
flash photography
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has very little influence over the final
result anything where in between about a
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68 for the second up until your flash
sync speed
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is gonna be fine for killing all the
ambient light in the room
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so whether I'm it 101 twenty-fifth 160
with second
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you're not gonna see a difference in our
ultimate exposure
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what regulates the exposure from a flash
is
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the flash power output as well as our
f/stop: and the camera
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and we're talking about sync speed every
camera has a native sync speed
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and that's the maximum shutter speed
that your camera
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will allow you to use a flash in short
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the up to curtains in your camera your
front curtains opens up
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and expose the sensor and then it
shortly thereafter followed by rear
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00:10:04,800 --> 00:10:05,470
curtain
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00:10:05,470 --> 00:10:08,790
mediately covers the sensor wall those
curtains
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are exposing the sensor that's when your
sensor is
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creating an image or exposing that image
if your shutter speed gets too fast
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rear curtain starts to close uncover
that censored before the flashes
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on dumping its full power on the scene
see you could see a little bar at the
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bottom of your screen
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or ingredient in the screen depending on
how fast that shutter speed is set
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for this shoot I'm using a really right
stuff tripod and the really right stuff
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ball had
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I could use a lighter weight ripon but I
thought I change it up a little bit for
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this one
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this gives me a little bit more hi I'm
not sure exactly how far above the
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product that we're gonna be for this one
so
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I was a good way to go let's try to get
in here and there are for shock talked
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about our camera settings were starting
ISO 100 and after eight
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I think I'm gonna do 120 for the second
is typically wear issued when I'm in a
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studio play sets 9 management 1
twenty-fifth 116 for two hundred as long
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as I don't go over that native sync
speed
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for the camera many pretty steep angle
here
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which gives me the ability to see not
only the top but also the front
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and the sidebar product so the first
thing to do is try to focus on our
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subject I'm using a sixteen to thirty
five-millimeter
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zoom lens this is a full-frame sensor so
it's a true 1635 field of view