100:00:01,960 --> 00:00:07,150One of the last things I'll tend to do w的中文翻譯

100:00:01,960 --> 00:00:07,150One o

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One of the last things I'll tend to do when I'm working on an image is apply sharpening.

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Very often I'll apply that sharpening as the last step as part of my output workflow.

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In other words, when I'm preparing an image for final output to be printed or

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shared online. But with old photos that need a lot of

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work, I'll often apply at least a little bit of sharpening during the workflow process.

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In other words, during the optimization process for the photo.

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It's important to keep in mind, however, that sharpening can be a dangerous thing

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when it comes to older photos, and that's because they tend to lack the detail that

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sharpening is going to enhance. Sharpening can, therefore, simply

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exacerbate noise or grain or other problems in the photo.

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With this image though, we have a fairly clean image.

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We've got a lot of good detail and so I think sharpening will work just fine.

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I want to apply some basic sharpening to the original image so that the master

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image contains sharpening. But I want sharpen all pixels in the image.

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You can see for example, that I have a background image layer.

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As well as an image clean up layer, I also have an adjustment layer but that of

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course does not contain any pixels. But I want to make sure that the pixels

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on both the background layer and cleanup layer are sharpened.

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That means I'm going to create a composite layer, because I don't want to

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have to apply sharpening multiple times to all of the images layers for a photo.

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To create that composite layer, I'll go to the Layers panel and then click on the

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thumbnail for the top most layer. I'll then hold the Ctrl+Alt+Shift keys on

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Windows or the Cmd+Option+Shift keys on Macintosh.

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And while holding all three of those keys, I'll press the letters N for a new

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layer and the letter E to merge visible onto that layer.

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I'm essentially stamping all of the contents of all of the layers below onto

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this new layer. To keep organized, I'll go ahead and

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rename this layer. So I'll double-click on the name for the layer.

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I'll just type composite as the new name and then press enter or return to apply

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that change. I can now apply sharpening to this layer,

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I generally use smart sharpen. So I'll go to the Filter > Sharpen >

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Smart Sharpen. That will bring up the Smart Sharpen

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dialog and I can adjust my settings as needed.

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Generally speaking, I'll want to use a relatively small radius, and a moderately

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high amount. Keep in mind that at this point I'm

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really just trying to compensate for the overall appearance of the photo.

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I'm not trying to exaggerate the sharpening for print.

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for example. I just want to improve the base

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sharpness, for the photo. If I have a high degree of detail, I'll

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definitely want to use a low radius. Generally, about 1 pixel or lower.

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And then my amount will generally be in the vicinity of 100%.

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That amount will vary based on the resolution of the image and the degree of detail.

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In situations where the detail is relatively course, in other words where I

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don't have a lot of fine detail where the transitions and contrast occur relatively

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over large amount of pixels. Then I'll tend to use a larger radius

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setting, generally between about two and perhaps 4 pixels.

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But as a result of that larger radius for the contrast edges, I'll need to reduce

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the amount somewhat significantly. For this photo though, I think a radius

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of right about 1 pixel will work out well.

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I'll increase the amount just a little bit in order to optimize the effect in

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the photo. At any time I can click on the preview

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image to see the before version without any sharpening and then release the mouse

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to see the after version. Note that I'm using the Lens blur option

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for removing. That's the only option I ever used with

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smart sharpen. The Gaussian blur option will give you

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the same affect as the unsharp mask filter for sharpening, which is not quite

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as sophisticated as smart sharpen. And motion blur, frankly, is not going to

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give you a great result because, if there's motion blur in the image, it's

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very difficult to compensate for. So I leave that set to Lens blur.

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In situations where I really want to enhance detail, I could turn on the More

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Accurate checkbox, but with older images, I never do that because that more

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accurate options is really just going to enhance any texture and other problems

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within the image that I don't really care about.

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I don't want to enhance film grain, for example, so I leave that More Accurate

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option turned off. With my settings established, I'll go

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ahead and click the Ok button. Now keep in mind, because I've applied my

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sharpening to the composite layer, if I later decide that I want to change

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anything else about the image, I'm going to need to throw away this composite

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image, make whatever adjustments I need, and then create a new composite layer,

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when I'm ready to sharpen the image again.

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But I think that's a small price to pay in terms of making sure That our

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sharpening is applied evenly to all pixels in the photo.
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原始語言: -
目標語言: -
結果 (中文) 1: [復制]
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100:00:01,960--> 00:00:07,150我倾向于我工作的图像的时候做的一件事之一就是应用锐化。200:00:07,150--> 00:00:12,370很多时候我会去申请,锐化,最后一步作为我输出工作流的一部分。300:00:12,370--> 00:00:15,394换句话说,当我准备最终的输出要打印的图像或400:00:15,394--> 00:00:18,870在网上分享。但与老照片,需要大量的500:00:18,870--> 00:00:23,970工作,我经常会去申请至少一点点的锐化在工作流过程。600:00:23,970--> 00:00:27,420换句话说,在这张照片的优化过程。700:00:27,420--> 00:00:30,616很重要的是要牢记心中,然而,那锐化可以是件危险的事800:00:30,616--> 00:00:33,812当它来到老照片,和那是因为他们往往缺乏细节,900:00:33,812--> 00:00:38,950锐化将会加强。锐化可以因此,只是1000:00:38,950--> 00:00:42,500加剧噪音或粮食或其他照片中的问题。1100:00:42,500--> 00:00:46,030与此图像虽然,我们有一个相当干净的图像。1200:00:46,030--> 00:00:50,760我们有很多好的细节,所以我认为锐化很好的工作。1300:00:50,760--> 00:00:54,408我想申请一些基本的锐化对原始图像的主人1400:00:54,408--> 00:00:59,230图像所包含的锐化。但我想锐化图像中的所有像素。1500:00:59,230--> 00:01:02,290例如,,你可以看到我有背景图像图层。1600:01:02,290--> 00:01:05,125以及清理层图像,我也有但那的调整图层1700:01:05,125--> 00:01:09,174课程中不包含任何像素。但是我想要确保像素1800:01:09,174--> 00:01:13,540这两个背景上削尖层和清理层。1900:01:13,540--> 00:01:16,360这意味着我要去创建一个复合层,因为我不想2000:01:16,360--> 00:01:21,430要应用到所有的一张照片的图像图层锐化多次。2100:01:21,430--> 00:01:24,466若要创建该复合层,我会去层面板,然后点击2200:01:24,466--> 00:01:29,286最顶层的缩略图。会再 Ctrl + Alt + Shift 键上2300:01:29,286--> 00:01:33,510Windows 或 Cmd + 选项 + Shift 键在 Macintosh 上。2400:01:33,510--> 00:01:36,982并按住这些键的所有三个,我会按字母 N 为新2500:01:36,982--> 00:01:41,051层和字母 E 合并可见到该图层上。2600:01:41,051--> 00:01:45,083我基本上冲压的所有下面的层上的所有内容2700:01:45,083--> 00:01:48,660这个新的图层。要有组织,我继续和2800:01:48,660--> 00:01:51,772重命名这一层。所以我会双击图层的名称。2900:01:51,772--> 00:01:55,737我会只需键入复合材料作为新名称,然后按输入或返适用3000:01:55,737--> 00:02:00,104这种改变。我现在可以应用到这一层锐化3100:02:00,104--> 00:02:05,240我一般使用智能锐化。所以我会去筛选器 > 锐化 >3200:02:05,240--> 00:02:09,610智能锐化。这将弹出智能锐化3300:02:09,610--> 00:02:13,290我和我的对话框可根据需要调整我的设置。3400:02:13,290--> 00:02:18,118一般来说,我会想要使用一个相对较小的半径,并适度3500:02:18,118--> 00:02:21,238高的金额。请记住,在这一点上我3600:02:21,238--> 00:02:25,310真的只想弥补这张照片的整体外观。3700:02:25 310--> 00:02:28,265我不是要夸大锐化用于打印。3800:02:28,265--> 00:02:30,272举个例子。我只是想要改善的基础3900:02:30,272--> 00:02:34,405对于这张照片的清晰度。如果我有高度的细节,我会4000:02:34,405--> 00:02:39,130一定要用低的半径。一般来说,关于 1 像素或更低。4100:02:39,130--> 00:02:43,650然后我的金额通常会 100%附近。4200:02:43,650--> 00:02:48,050这一数额取决于图像的详细程度的决议。4300:02:48,050--> 00:02:51,767在的情况下细节相对课程,换句话说,我4400:02:51,767--> 00:02:55,897没有很多的细节相对发生的转换和对比4500:02:55,897--> 00:03:01,110在大量的像素。然后我会倾向于使用更大的半径4600:03:01,110--> 00:03:05,410设置,一般大约是两个和也许 4 像素之间。4700:03:05,410--> 00:03:08,842但是由于那更大的半径,对比度边缘,我会需要降低4800:03:08,842--> 00:03:13,374量有点大。这张照片,我认为一个半径4900:03:13,374--> 00:03:16,580大约是 1 像素的工作好。5000:03:16,580--> 00:03:19,730我会只是一点点增加时间,以达到优化的效果5100:03:19,730--> 00:03:22,640这张照片。在任何时间,我可以请单击预览5200:03:22,640--> 00:03:26,244图像以查看之前的版本没有任何锐化,然后释放鼠标5300:03:26,244--> 00:03:31,668看后的版本。请注意,我使用镜头模糊选项5400:03:31,668--> 00:03:34,926为删除。这是我用过的唯一的选择5500:03:34,926--> 00:03:37,914智能锐化。高斯模糊选项会给你5600:03:37,914--> 00:03:41,242锐化,锐化掩模滤波同样的影响不是很5700:03:41,242--> 00:03:46,088随着复杂的智能锐化。运动模糊,坦率地说,不去5800:03:46,088--> 00:03:48,955给你一个不错的结果,因为,如果有运动模糊图像,它具有5900:03:48,955--> 00:03:53,710很难弥补。让设置为镜头模糊。6000:03:53,710--> 00:03:57,112在哪里想加强细节的情况下,可以开启更多6100:03:57,112--> 00:04:00,514准确的复选框,但与旧的图像,我从来不会因为更多6200:04:00,514--> 00:04:04,132准确的选项真的只要加强任何纹理和其他问题6300:04:04,132--> 00:04:09,040内不真的在乎的图像。6400:04:09,040--> 00:04:12,432不想提高胶片颗粒,举个例子,所以我离开那更准确6500:04:12,432--> 00:04:16,506关闭的选项。我建立的设置,我就去6600:04:16,506--> 00:04:20,000前方,然后单击确定按钮。现在请记住,因为我已把我6700:04:20,000--> 00:04:23,050锐化到复合层,如果我以后决定我想要改变6800:04:23 050--> 00:04:26,250有关图像还有别的,我要去需要扔掉这种复合材料6900:04:26,250--> 00:04:29,600图像,使需要的无论怎样调整,然后创建一个新的复合层,7000:04:29,600--> 00:04:34,370当我准备再锐化图像。7100:04:34,370--> 00:04:37,505但这是一个小的价格,要付出的代价是确保使我们7200:04:37 505--> 00:04:41,570锐化被均匀到照片中的所有像素。
正在翻譯中..
結果 (中文) 3:[復制]
復制成功!
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最后一件我会做的时候,我的工作是将图像的锐化。

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我经常会运用锐化作为最后的步骤,我的输出工作流程的一部分。

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换句话说,当我准备一个图像的最终输出是印刷或

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在线共享。但老照片,需要

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工作,我经常会用至少一点点锐化的工作流过程。

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换句话说,对于图片优化过程中。

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重要的是要记住,然而,那磨是件危险的事

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说到老照片,那是因为他们往往缺乏细节,

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锐化会增强。锐化,因此,简单地

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加剧光噪声或谷物或其他问题。

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虽然这形象,我们有一个相当干净的图像。

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我们有很多好的细节,所以我认为锐化会工作得很好。

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我想应用一些基本的锐化图像,主

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图像锐化。但我想锐化图像中的所有像素。

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你可以看到的例子,我有一个背景图像层。

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以及图像清理层,我也有一个调整层,

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课程不包含任何像素。但我想确保像素

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对背景层和清理层磨。

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这意味着我将创建一个复合层,因为我不想

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必须运用锐化多次所有的图像层的照片。

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创建复合层,我去到图层面板然后点击

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缩略图的最上面一层。然后我会在

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Windows或CMD选项shift键在Macintosh按住CTRL ALT SHIFT键。

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和在所有这三个键,我会按字母N的一个新的

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层和字母E合并可见到那层。

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我基本上是冲压所有下面的层上的内容

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这个新层。保持有组织的,我会去

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命名图层。所以我会双击层的名称。

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就型复合为新的名称,然后按Enter或退货申请

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改变。我现在可以应用锐化这一层,

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我一般使用智能锐化。所以我会去滤镜>锐化>

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智能锐化。这将使智能锐化

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对话框和我可以调整设置的需要。

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一般来说,我想用一个相对较小的半径,和适度

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高量。记住,在这一点上我

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真的只是试图弥补照片的整体外观。

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我不想夸大锐化打印。

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例如。我只是想改善基础

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锐度的照片。如果我有一个高度的细节,我会

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一定要使用低半径。一般来说,1像素或更低。

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然后我量一般都在100%附近。

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金额将根据不同的图像的分辨率和细节的程度。

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在详细比较课程的情况,换句话说,我

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没有很多细节的转换和对比发生比较

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过大量的像素。
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