A visit to the heart of one of Earth’s greatest green splodges reinforces a sense of what is afoot. In many ways, Apple is on the side of the angels when it comes to surveillance; no other big tech company takes privacy so seriously. Employees are no longer as afraid of error as they were when the late Steve Jobs still ran the place. Even senior executives sport a relaxed untucked look, a faint echo of Apple’s countercultural origins.